7/3/14 Another Dam Good Day

A different direction will always change the view! Today we took a known road north instead of south and it was all "déjà-new".

Snuggled in on a rainy morning, we built a fire and relaxed into the day. Homemade eggs and bacon kicked it up a notch. Then two bucks gave us a show as they flaunted their antlers by our window. And to trump that, the sun came out! We were ready to ride.

We have ridden the Kootenai River and Koocanoosa Reservoir before, but today we reversed our route. After riding to Libby, the town built to house the workers constructing the dam, we searched for the road to take us up the west side of the river. After several false starts, none of them roads we wouldn't want to ride in the future, we found our way. Our flight pattern took us up to the dam and beyond. Both the Kootenai River and the reservoir created by the Libby Dam are some of the most beautiful waters we have ever encountered. Soaring up along the edge of  the Koocanusa Lake, we looked down on the turquoise glacial waters below. A solitary picnic by the river was punctuated by trains across the way.  

Owning the road, we passed few cars all day. Pure wilderness, our path carried no signs of civilization. For over 100 miles not a single wire, pole or tower descecrated the beauty of this day. A western turn took us away from the water and deep into the forest. Riding into the sun, gearing up and down moutains and switchbacks, we wriggled our way to Yaak, the first settlement to appear. Dinner at "The Dirty Shame" gave us a taste of the locals in this speck of a town. Consisting of 2 bars and a general store, it is the hub and gathering place for folks living in the surrounding mountains. 

With about 70 miles left in our day, we rode with the setting sun along the Yaak River, another Montana masterpiece. Tumbling falls rushed the pure mountain water down to join the Kootenai as we raced along with it. At Troy, we turned onto route 56, our home stretch. Welcomed by deer watching as we rode up to our lovely temporary hearth, we regretted not booking for another night. 

Tomorrow we leave Montana. We have grown to love this state and it's many gifts. It will be a difficult separation. While here, Jules and I composed a list of our  favorite things about Montana. 

14. Red Beer

13. You can drink the water out of the tap

12. Nobody cares if you ride your dog around on the back of your flatbed

11. You can see wild animals outside of the parks (and very often hanging on walls)

10. The characters you meet

9. Quiet

8. The Big Sky

7. The sunsets

6. Lakes and Rivers

5. Pure air

4. THESE Rockies

3. People appreciate and respect others and their environment

2. Roads that climb mountains and follow rivers 

1. FREEDOM

As the mountains resound with the echoes of celebratory fireworks tonight, we thank Montana for letting us fully appreciate the meaning of "The Land of the Free..."

Rascal watches a deer

View from our mountain home

The ubiquitous orange picnic bag by the Kootenai

The Libby Dam

The Koocanusa ( Kootenai, Canada, USA)

Lupine

This is how we ride!

It's a Dirty Shame!

Yaak River Falls

Yaak River Selfie

How convenient!

7/2/14 The Road Less Traveled

Our winding road took surprising turns today.

Logan Pass was our real reason for being here, but we decided to venture into the park at West Glacier, even though the road was closed at the top. Framed by mountains, beautiful, clear Lake McDonald reminded us that there's more to this park than the breathtaking views at the summit. As the lake morphed into the Flathead River, evidence of the force of the melting snow could be seen in the roiling whitewater. Giant white peaks spouted up at every turn, but only proved a tease as 18 miles in, the road was closed. In a few days, The Going To The Sun Road will be opened all the way through, but we will miss it this time.

Crazy traffic was pouring into the park as we headed out. Where the rangers were going to direct all these cars, motorcycles and RVs at the bottleneck where the road closed was a mystery, the solution of which we didn't care to hang around to see! We burst through the arch of the park onto route 2, gladly leaving the touristy turmoil behind.

Looking for the back road we had taken last night, we stumbled upon the Hungry Horse Dam and reservoir. Freed from the traffic in Glacier, we took wing and flew unencumbered toward the dam. This eastern route paralleled the one we took last night on the other side of the river. 

At the dam, we were able to cross over and discover our real reason for our trek up the Flathead. A virtually uninhibited road with no guardrails, warnings or speed limits, twisted us up and around the reservoir. Spectacular views of sun sparkled glaciers peeked through stands of Doulas Fir. A few campgrounds dotted the various rivers that poured down from the mountains. A recently improved road twined through the curves as Rascal devoured them. We thrilled in the ride for miles before we ran out of blacktop.

Exhilarated, we paused and sat on a rock at the edge of a cliff. Birdsong was the only sound - the sun and the trees our companions. We knew that we were exactly where we were supposed to be, together. Separating ourselves from this moment was difficult, but we moved on, back across the dam out to route 2 again, where we did find our way from the previous night, and followed it again until it ended at the dam on the other side.

Tonight we had a destination, so we took the most direct route. Remembering our magical stay at Bull Lake two years ago, I looked up vacation rentals there. A phone call to the owner of one posted found Jules booking us in the exact home we had stayed before. Route 2 to Libby was great fun, after escaping the traffic in Kalispell. Stopping In Libby, we bought groceries, then turned onto Bull Lake Rd. for the final leg of our journey.

After settling into our fully stocked mountain home, complete with fireplace, we rode down to the Halfway House for the pizza that called us for thousands of miles. As we walked in, a woman sitting on the porch said "Weren't you here last year?" and then we were friends all over again. Mountain men, bikers and just locals hang at the bar and every one has a story to tell. Love this place.

Back in the woods, we nestle down in our mountain paradise and relive today's episode in our unfolding travels. Filled with ups and downs, twists and turns, it analogized our ride. Every day is a winding road and we take each turn with the thrill of a new experience waiting around the bend.

Lake McDonald

The Flathead

Our private road

The rock

The cliff

Lost Johnny stream

Our Mountain Home

Our Mountain Breakfast

7/1/14 The Big Tease

Homework is important!

Rascal made her trip to the Harley doctor bright and early, but not early enough to beat two bikes there before  her, waiting for repairs. I busied myself at the hotel, waiting for Jules. It was past noon when we pulled out, saying good-bye to a great hotel, the C'mon Inn.

Excited to be heading toward Glacier and the Going to the Sun Road, we were teased by its startling white peaks, even though we were still 150 miles away. Every turn provided a new view. First we were riding toward the mountains, then in the valley beside them. A crystal Montana sky backed the snowy peaks as ranches and cattle provided the foreground.

After struggling up RV clogged route 93, we veered off and took the less traveled route to the park. Running along the east side of Flathead Lake on route 35, we were able to relax into the day. The largest lake west of the Mississippi, Flathead guided us north for miles. Yellow Bay State Park served as our picnic spot. Sitting by the placid waters, we relished the gift of this perfect day.

At 4:00, we stopped in Columbia Falls at our home for the night, the Western Inn.  We thought we'd make a quick run into the park, but after booking our room, we heard that Going To The Sun was not open yet due to 20 inches of snow that fell last week. So disappointed, we blamed ourselves for not researching the park opening. The road probably won't be open until the Fourth, but we will be moving on.

Ignoring this setback, we made the most of the rest of the day by dining al fresco with the company of mountains, then taking a little side trip up a deserted road.  We will revisit this trip tomorrow when the light is not failing and the temperature dropping. Back at our hotel we watched as the sun set over the mountains, spewing oranges and reds into the azure sky. At 10:30, darkness finally arrived and we settled in for the night.

A lesson was learned today. As we wander across the country, nothing is ever certain. But when delays and disappointment block our way, we turn the other cheek to the wind and find a better route.

Rascal is ready as we leave the C'mon Inn

Teaser

Bridge for animals to cross the highway

Flathead Lake

6/30/14 Break Time

Sometimes you just have to roll back the throttle and cruise.

After days of planning routes, packing the bike and checking in and out of motels, we laid back for a day and enjoyed our beautiful accommodations at the C'mon Inn, Missoula and the surrounding rides. Waiting for 45 degrees to become 50, our riding threshold, we ate a leisurely breakfast in the atrium, relaxing by the waterfall under the watchful eyes of a mountain goat.

Bundled up in layers of clothes, we ventured out to ride highway 12 over the Lolo Pass. Part of the Northwest Passage, this was the route taken by Lewis and Clark in their explorations that opened the West. It was not difficult to imagine their canoes loaded with supplies, navigating the rapids of the

Lochsa River through the Bitteroot Mountains.

At the summit of the Lolo Pass, we entered Idaho. Riding downhill for miles, Rascal swerved into the sweeps as we leaned with her. An improved road, the riding wasn't a challenge, but it was a pure joy. Unencumbered by luggage, wind and rain, we ran freely under sunny skies along the impetuous, raging flow of the rain and snow fed river.  

As the Lochsa wound through the mountains, so did we. Small feeder streams picked up the pace of the torrent as we picked up ours. Lunch in a secluded, mountain enclosed, picnic area saw us unlayer our jackets and enjoy the increasing warmth of the day. 

After our picnic we had the choice of an early return to Missoula or more river running. We chose the latter, as the Crystal River took over the Lochsa and the rapids raged. Finding gas on this road is a challenge, but Kooskia filled us up for our return trip.

With the sun at our backs, we headed for Montana. After 75 miles of hard running, we stopped for a break in a clearing along the river. Jules made a fire and by ourselves we exalted in our glorious day.

A glitch in perfection came with a broken shifter on the bike, as we swept back over the Lolo Pass. A farmer to the core, Jules rigged it with zip ties. We rolled into our motel flawlessly. Tomorrow will see Rascal making a visit to the Harley doctor.

Still swaying from the rolling curves of our adventure today, we nestled under our duvet, bathed in cool mountain air from the open window. Flashbacks of pristine water, sluicing down mountain ravines to meet a roaring river and 300 miles of winding road, once again prove the motorcyclist's mantra: It's not the destination - it's the ride!

Lunchtime visitor

Firestarter!

Secluded rest!

C'mon Inn