The Rascal Diaries: 7/26/14 Threading the Needle

True to its name, the Silver Thread Highway threaded us through the rain today.

An early start form Durango, saw us out on route 160 in beautiful weather. Riding into the Ute Reservation, we passed Chimney Rock. A national landmark created by erosion, the stony formation juts into the skyline . We paused here to appreciate this oddity.

Into the San Juan Forest again, we began a lovely ride of ascents and descents into Pagosa Springs. Here we headed north on route 148, the Silver Thread Scenic Byway. Loosely following the Rio Grande to its roots, the road is scenic, historic and a mighty fine ride.

We stopped for lunch in a campground planted by the river. Clear skies had given way to fluffy clouds and now as we got into the mountains these cotton balls had picked up all the moisture they could handle and were angry and dark, exploding everywhere. Thunder echoed from the mountains as we watched a storm roil toward us, trying to ruin our picnic. But we stared it down, rejoicing in its shade, and watched it head away. Just as we were relaxing, a clap of thunder from behind announced another boomer rolling in. So we packed up.

On the way out of the campground we met Melvin, the camp attendant. Many retired people spend their summers in RV's watching over these state parks. A low talker, Melvin had us listening intently to his stories of being a football coach and teacher, told in his Texas drawl. He assured us that the road to Lake City tracked right between these two storms and we wouldn't get wet. A friendly man in this lonely spot, he seemed hungry for conversation.

So we threaded the storms. Following the river, the road took us through Creede, a once thriving town built on silver, with a population of 10,000. Now boasting a population of 400, the town exists on tourist trade. Once the home of Bat Masterson, Calamity Jane and Bob Ford ( the killer of Jesse James who was shot here himself), Creede is kept alive by tourists who come to immerse themselves in its history.

At the Slumgullion Pass between Creede and Lake City, we were given a modern geological lesson. The Slumgullion Earthflow began 850 years ago when an earthquake ripped out the top of the mountain. About two hundred years ago, the earth began to move again. The red dirt still continues to flow at approximately 20 ' a year. An active geological site! We looked for movement and were glad we saw none, because we had to ride right under it. The flow got its name because it looked the unappetizing stew prospectors used to make.

From this pass we could also view the massive mountain range peaked by the Uncompahgre Peak. The Rio Grande Pyramid on the other side of the divide is the birthplace of the grand river that flows from here for 1850 miles to the Gulf of Mexico. Surrounded by such grandeur, we failed to notice that our thread through the storms began to disappear.

Lake City sits on Lake San Cristobal, the result of the earthquake and ground movement at Slumgullion. After passing through here, we picked up the Gunnison River and followed it to our home for the night. Pursued by thunderclouds, we were rained on briefly, but soon dried off in the next patch of sun. The Gunnison cuts deeply into the rock, creating beautiful canyons that we followed to the city of Gunnison where we rest for the night. Even on our dinner trek out to the Gunnysack Cowboy Bistro, the rain threatened us, but we rode there and back unscathed. At 7700' we are sleeping in our highest elevation of the trip. Breathe!

Getting home dry in the Rockies is a crap shoot. We have learned to disregard the ominous clouds, claps of thunder and darting lightening. There is no planning with these fickle storms that pop up every day and everywhere, sucking up the heat and laying down cool green moisture. Some days, like today, we are lucky and feel confident in our good fortune. But, our rain suits are always packed on top for the next foray into the clouds.